finally found some time to write again...so I had left you at Chengdu and am now taking you to Lhasa.
We had an early 7am flight from Chengdu and not only did we sleep late but I had bad stomach cramps through the night. Anyways, the site of the incredible Himalayas just made me forget about them at least during the flight. They looked majestic and we just caught site of Everest with its pointed peak. On landing poor Flip (who was worse than me) forgot her passport on the plane, luckily Sharon retrieved it quickly for her.
At over 3500m of height, altitude just hit us again so we were kind of swayed our way to the bus. I dozed off for most of the 2hr ride interrupted by cold body shudders. Sharon woke us up at one point to see the largest carved Buddhas on rock.
The air was so thin, the sky so blue and the sun so bright, I felt I was miles away from planet earth. With the help of photos I kind of remember the Buddha carvings being tall and colourful.
The 'Oh Dan' Hotel was very welcoming - a comfy basic hotel in the middle of the narrow-street market. We dropped our bags and Sharon took us to the 'best Western food restaurant in Lhasa' which luckily was only a few metres away. I couldn't believe I was staring at a wonderful veggie lasagna (after weeks of rice) about to feel sick!!! Why?! oh Why?! I paid the bill, left the untouched food and dashed for the hotel......
I only managed to get out of bed the following morning and somehow ate some eggs on Tibetan toast. Still dazed and dizzy from altitude and being ill, I joined the others for a Tibet language lesson. Mmmm...from the whole list of words, well I forced myself to remember the basic ones at least.
Out in town again, the middle of the Burgkor Square I felt as if I was floating in mid-air. I was still so spaced out and dizzy. Luckily enough Cath's dehydration sachet started sipping into my system so I gradually started walking straight again! I then spiked my blood pressure with a salty packet of soup and hot salty paprika potatoes from the market. That just did the trick and enabled me to go visit the Jokhang Temple with the rest of the group that afternoon.
The Jokhang Temple is Lhasa's most sacred and biggest cathedral. I was amazed at the amount of people prostrating themselves infront of the building. The Temple inside had a central courtyard with multiple chapels all around. Monks played hide and seek coming in and out of each chapel, ensuring that each deity had enough yuk butter candles, katas, flowers to keep them pretty in their shrines. We had just went in and round one of the bigger chapels and apparently the most popular for healing prayers and offerings when the doors of the Temple opened so that a swarm of locals ran in, desperately mumbling prayers, caring sick children in their arms. The chapel was suddenly chock full with people while an endless queue waited for their turn outside. Simon reminded me of the similar behaviour of basically any place of worship, no matter what religion or place. That sparked a mental comparison with the Catholics' worship of statues. Back in my country, Malta, we have statues of saints vs Buddhas and Buddhistavas; churches vs monasteries, and believers worshiped and prayed perhaps not in the same way but just as fervently. So where's the difference? was my next question. Well, it was the belief of the religion or philosophy behind it, really. And once again I came to terms with my own believe; it's not how you practice your faith but it's how you live your life.
We left the throng of people to the tranquility of the Temple's roof. From up there, world looked at peace; with the Potala Palace right infront of us, the mountains at our backs and the busy but almost inaudible square beneath us. The scenary was a far cry from the locals' moaning prayers for freedom, cure, forgiveness, a better life in the next...
Well, I ended the day with a lovely Western dinner with Jo & Aaron and even enjoyed a Mars bar for dessert!!! (oh me and my love for chocolate!!)
Next day we visited one of the most anticipated sites of the trip; The Potala Palace. We were under strict surveillance from the Chinese and not only did we need our passports to get it but we only had an hour to tour it and get out otherwise we'd be fined. And oddly enough, our guide was not meant to tell us anything during the tour esp. since he was Tibetan. He just briefly briefed us before our entry. We were all excited half knowing what to expect in a way. We first climbed up the inumerous flight of stairs which took twice the toll due to the high altitude. Inside were internal courtyards surrounded by empty rooms with only a few retaining their stature as chapels. Apart from tourists, most of them Chinese, there were a few lucky Tibetans who managed to swipe their katas along the rails, doorways and everybit of the Palace for a morsel of the Dalai Lama's blessing be knowing of the Chinese guards. It was a touching site; the sick little children with red flushed cheeks, gleaming eyes, dangling from their mothers' sides, the hasty men pushing along while noisely murmuring prayers in a race against (tour) time. Their eyes hungrily absorbing every inch of the Dalai Lama's residential rooms.
For the rest the Potala Palace was a Verseilles, a museum, only made rich with the memory and spirit of the Dalia Lama and haunting Buddhas.
That afternoon we had a lecture in Tibetan Buddhisim medicine by the Director of one of the local hospitals. Unfortunately, I didn't last long as my bowels decided to explode once again!!! At least, I managed to attend the diagnosis session next morning!
We sat on a long sofa covered in wonderful Tibetan carpet tapestry with our pee samples sitting infront of us on beautifully carved coffee tables! The doctor called us one by one by his side. He first examined the sample, then our hands, took a reading of our pulse and started preaching. In my case, I belonged to the white sect which meant a healthy nervous system and that I was 'cold' and 'lazy by nature' cool, never expected that! The others couldn't help laughing at my astound expression.
I spent the rest of the afternoon shopping around the Chinese / Tibetan market in the Burgkor Square. I then joined the others for a visit at Braille without Borders institute - one of Intrepid's sponsored projects. We were all pretty impressed by the centre's accomplishments in teaching children and training adults to read and type and basically live with being blind.
After that we got a cab and went to see the monks debating in the courtyard of the Sera Monastery. It was quite a site (especially with some really cute-looking ones!!...ahhh we girls couldn't help noticing!!). It was a splendid sunny afternoon and we all set underneath the leave-falling trees watching clusters of monks in debate; about four of them squatting on the floor debating amongst themselves while the one standing infront of them creating and arousing the debate. Even though we couldn't understand a thing it was interesting to watch the standing monk loudly clap his hands at point or two the group would have announced.
I took the next day off and in a way a break from the Monasteries. I enjoyed Lhasa despite it's loss of authenticity and everything it actually had presented. I felt pity for the Tibetans especially the ones who weren't allowed to return to Lhasa anymore and are dispersed in other neighbouring countries. Even though highly unlikely, I do hope that one day the Dalai Lama will return to his seat again, looking over his city through his ancient telescope!
bye for now ...next up ...more monasteries & Everest base Camp
kisses
Nicky
X
