hello!
the Jurassic Coast gets its name from the thousands of fossils embedded in the rock strata and some even found along pebbled beaches. Dorset's coastline is a proof of prehistoric predators that trod the land and swam the oceans at the time (195 million years ago). Dinosaur footprints to fossilised crocodiles and large squid are amongst major findings. I couldn't believe my eyes when I visited a tiny fossils museum in a pub in Wort Matravers. Who'd ever thought the croc was native to Britain too?
Well over the past 3 days I might as well have discovered another aspect of this Jurassic Coast; it jaws. Its steep up and downhills took my breath away in every sense!
Saturday 7.30am saw me snoozing on a train from Reading to Bournemouth. In Bournemouth I took a bus to get to Sandbanks where a ferry transported passengers, cars and double-deck buses over a mere two miles of sea crossing.
Shells beach is the end point of the South West Coast Path. As I turned to start my walk I looked for my first signpost.
Spotted and....wow now that's one kind of trek!
I am quite an ambitious person but not till that point. My end destination for this long weekend was Weymouth, a total of 40 miles. I set off leisurely, strolling along the sandy beach trying hard to look ahead and avoid sneaky peaky at the 'naturists' (the term the Brits use to describe the'nudists). But how to avoid a man running along the beach coming in your direction with nothing on but a hat and a backpack?!?!!?
Anyways, the 'path' serpented its way high up onto the cliffs from where I got fantastic views of the chalky Pinnacles. Within minutes I was strolling the old streets of a little village made up of an ancient overgrown pub and manor.
Walking along (so far no major hills) I found myself in tiny but busy Swanage. A typical British seaside village with red & white striped deckchairs, a Punch & Judy puppet show stall, ice-cream vendors and for some occasion local folk dancing in the middle of the street. I relished the atmosphere and breathed in the smell of fish and chips! Far from the maddening crowd I sat on the edge of a cliff overlooking the expanse of the sea and enjoyed a mini lunch.
I walked into a tiny park almost like back gardens of the surrounding manor houses. Then before I knew it I was in Valletta! No way, yes way! I came across the Durlston Castle and it had two lookouts identical to the ones that guard the Grand Harbour back in Malta. Oh well, I suppose lookouts are or were lookouts, but how co-incidental is the style?!
I walked along the lovely cliffs now in the piercing rays of the sun. I took a tea break on the Dancing Ledge watching climbers hanging to dear life against the cliffs while families frolicked on the rocky beach. It was growing late so I hed to find Worth Matravers and my lodging for the night. I walked through what seemed miles of field land when finally I got to the Winspit track, which according to the directions would lead me to a row of 'London' cottages, a duck pond, a Square & Compass pub and a Newfoundland Close in which a Chiltern Lodge occupied the fourth plot of land.
I almost tiptoed my way across the pretty garden. In the porch, I carefully removed my dirty walking boots and was immediately greeted by David then wife Ann. David showed me around and took my to the guest bedroom. Ah such a welcome! Almost felt like home. I showered and dashed back out to enjoy the last rays of the sun. Later David entertained me with his travel and charity work stories when Mr & Mrs Sawkins (the other guests) made their way in. I shared a lovey dinner with them prepared by Ann; salmon finished off with rhubarb crumble (yummy!)
An early night prepared me for the second day which according to David would be 'the most energetic' and so it was. Back from where I had ended the previous day I hiked high up the cliffs I was just in time for the morning rise of the compass flag by the National Coast Guard outside the lookout on St Aldhelm’s Head.
After a couple of steep climbs and runs down the hills (the fun bit!) I thought I lost the Path for a while as I landed in the middle of a field of grazing sheep. Then a little lamb showed me a signpost well hidden in the grassy ground.
Back on track I got to beautiful and quite Chapman's Pool, then up and down the roller coaster again I eventually ended up in crowded Kimmeridge Bay. I had a bite to eat amongst little kids throwing pebbles in water and the bigger ones splashing around or doing the same.
Within half a mile I found myself within the military range so walkers were made to walk within the yellow markers. The view from up there was stunning all along. The sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky. It was a great afternoon to be outside breathing all that pure air and sweating it out!
Just when I thought I had another couple of hours of walking, I got to my destination for the day, Lullworth Cove. Gosh it was crowded! Its small circular bay was packed, so was its one and only street to the centre of the village. Ice-cream parlours, inns, kiosks, tiny shops, boats, cars, everything seemed to be in the way yet it was all that clutter that made it alive.
I had a huge honey, ginger and lemon ice-cream, which was well worth it then David picked me up and I was driven back to Worth Matravers to spend another night there since Lullworth Cove was chock full. It was only thanks to David and his wife's thoughtfulness that I managed to enjoy such a weekend in Dorset.
That evening I had dinner with the Sawkins again and a Norwegian Tom, who actually flew to trek the coast for 10 days. We shared interesting conversation then after another scrumptious dinner we visited the only pub in Worth Matravers. The evening was clear and it never got dark before 10pm, so we enjoyed our drinks with many others al fresco.
Next morning it rained pretty steadily for about an hour but by the time we got back to Lullworth Cove it stopped and never poured again for the rest of the day. I said bye to David and set off for the final part of my journey. I finally got to the one of (if not the) highlights of the my track's coastal scenery. Durdle Door is just a stunning spectacle.
Another roller coaster ride took me to Ringstead Bay where I enjoyed a break on the seashore. The sun was still trying to come out. The track deviated from the coast and brought me further inland so I could only see the sea from a distance. As I hastened my pace I hit the ground almost running after the final ascent. And there I was back into noisy civilisation at Weymouth. The final long stretch of the smooth promenade was bliss and even more so with the sun riping the summery scene.
I really wished I could linger on that beach for hours but I had to call it a day and start my homeward journey, about a three hour train ride.
It truly was a well spent bank holiday weekend :)
..mmmmm..wonder where will I be going next???
bye for now
Nicky
the Jurassic Coast gets its name from the thousands of fossils embedded in the rock strata and some even found along pebbled beaches. Dorset's coastline is a proof of prehistoric predators that trod the land and swam the oceans at the time (195 million years ago). Dinosaur footprints to fossilised crocodiles and large squid are amongst major findings. I couldn't believe my eyes when I visited a tiny fossils museum in a pub in Wort Matravers. Who'd ever thought the croc was native to Britain too?
Well over the past 3 days I might as well have discovered another aspect of this Jurassic Coast; it jaws. Its steep up and downhills took my breath away in every sense!
Saturday 7.30am saw me snoozing on a train from Reading to Bournemouth. In Bournemouth I took a bus to get to Sandbanks where a ferry transported passengers, cars and double-deck buses over a mere two miles of sea crossing.
Shells beach is the end point of the South West Coast Path. As I turned to start my walk I looked for my first signpost.
Spotted and....wow now that's one kind of trek!I am quite an ambitious person but not till that point. My end destination for this long weekend was Weymouth, a total of 40 miles. I set off leisurely, strolling along the sandy beach trying hard to look ahead and avoid sneaky peaky at the 'naturists' (the term the Brits use to describe the'nudists). But how to avoid a man running along the beach coming in your direction with nothing on but a hat and a backpack?!?!!?
Anyways, the 'path' serpented its way high up onto the cliffs from where I got fantastic views of the chalky Pinnacles. Within minutes I was strolling the old streets of a little village made up of an ancient overgrown pub and manor.
Walking along (so far no major hills) I found myself in tiny but busy Swanage. A typical British seaside village with red & white striped deckchairs, a Punch & Judy puppet show stall, ice-cream vendors and for some occasion local folk dancing in the middle of the street. I relished the atmosphere and breathed in the smell of fish and chips! Far from the maddening crowd I sat on the edge of a cliff overlooking the expanse of the sea and enjoyed a mini lunch.
I walked into a tiny park almost like back gardens of the surrounding manor houses. Then before I knew it I was in Valletta! No way, yes way! I came across the Durlston Castle and it had two lookouts identical to the ones that guard the Grand Harbour back in Malta. Oh well, I suppose lookouts are or were lookouts, but how co-incidental is the style?!
I walked along the lovely cliffs now in the piercing rays of the sun. I took a tea break on the Dancing Ledge watching climbers hanging to dear life against the cliffs while families frolicked on the rocky beach. It was growing late so I hed to find Worth Matravers and my lodging for the night. I walked through what seemed miles of field land when finally I got to the Winspit track, which according to the directions would lead me to a row of 'London' cottages, a duck pond, a Square & Compass pub and a Newfoundland Close in which a Chiltern Lodge occupied the fourth plot of land.
I almost tiptoed my way across the pretty garden. In the porch, I carefully removed my dirty walking boots and was immediately greeted by David then wife Ann. David showed me around and took my to the guest bedroom. Ah such a welcome! Almost felt like home. I showered and dashed back out to enjoy the last rays of the sun. Later David entertained me with his travel and charity work stories when Mr & Mrs Sawkins (the other guests) made their way in. I shared a lovey dinner with them prepared by Ann; salmon finished off with rhubarb crumble (yummy!)
An early night prepared me for the second day which according to David would be 'the most energetic' and so it was. Back from where I had ended the previous day I hiked high up the cliffs I was just in time for the morning rise of the compass flag by the National Coast Guard outside the lookout on St Aldhelm’s Head.
After a couple of steep climbs and runs down the hills (the fun bit!) I thought I lost the Path for a while as I landed in the middle of a field of grazing sheep. Then a little lamb showed me a signpost well hidden in the grassy ground.
Back on track I got to beautiful and quite Chapman's Pool, then up and down the roller coaster again I eventually ended up in crowded Kimmeridge Bay. I had a bite to eat amongst little kids throwing pebbles in water and the bigger ones splashing around or doing the same.
Within half a mile I found myself within the military range so walkers were made to walk within the yellow markers. The view from up there was stunning all along. The sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky. It was a great afternoon to be outside breathing all that pure air and sweating it out!
Just when I thought I had another couple of hours of walking, I got to my destination for the day, Lullworth Cove. Gosh it was crowded! Its small circular bay was packed, so was its one and only street to the centre of the village. Ice-cream parlours, inns, kiosks, tiny shops, boats, cars, everything seemed to be in the way yet it was all that clutter that made it alive.
I had a huge honey, ginger and lemon ice-cream, which was well worth it then David picked me up and I was driven back to Worth Matravers to spend another night there since Lullworth Cove was chock full. It was only thanks to David and his wife's thoughtfulness that I managed to enjoy such a weekend in Dorset.
That evening I had dinner with the Sawkins again and a Norwegian Tom, who actually flew to trek the coast for 10 days. We shared interesting conversation then after another scrumptious dinner we visited the only pub in Worth Matravers. The evening was clear and it never got dark before 10pm, so we enjoyed our drinks with many others al fresco.
Next morning it rained pretty steadily for about an hour but by the time we got back to Lullworth Cove it stopped and never poured again for the rest of the day. I said bye to David and set off for the final part of my journey. I finally got to the one of (if not the) highlights of the my track's coastal scenery. Durdle Door is just a stunning spectacle.
Another roller coaster ride took me to Ringstead Bay where I enjoyed a break on the seashore. The sun was still trying to come out. The track deviated from the coast and brought me further inland so I could only see the sea from a distance. As I hastened my pace I hit the ground almost running after the final ascent. And there I was back into noisy civilisation at Weymouth. The final long stretch of the smooth promenade was bliss and even more so with the sun riping the summery scene.
I really wished I could linger on that beach for hours but I had to call it a day and start my homeward journey, about a three hour train ride.
It truly was a well spent bank holiday weekend :)
..mmmmm..wonder where will I be going next???
bye for now
Nicky
