Wednesday, 27 June 2007

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 6

Oh, we so longed to sleep more, but were woken up at 6.30 with the usual tea only to be confronted by a 6 to 7 hour downward walk. Before that though, and immediately after breakfast we had the official tipping presentation ceremony. We collected all the tips for each of the groups (guides, porters, cook etc...) then Tim our spokesperson thanked all in Swahili and presented them with the money. They all then sang us the Kilimanjaro song ...oh so cute!!! :)
The day lay long ahead of us although we found our energies as we re-gained more oxygen at lower levels especially given that most of our walk was through thick rain forest. The latter as it seems being the abode of an elephant which unfortunately, we never came across :( We stopped for a quick lunch at Mandara huts, which was at 2700m. Only about 800m to get to Marangu gate....weeee..e..e.eeeeee!!!!!! We half walked half ran down, whatever our aching knees allowed.

Finally, Marangu gate.....was like getting at the end of a marathon!! :)

We met quite a few other climbers there, some barely able to walk any longer. I and others were fine, further proving our training. We celebrated with beer and diet coke while we signed the gate's book and said our byes to the guides. The minute I got some mobile phone coverage I called home, or well each member of my family to tell the great news; "I got to the summit - Uhuru!!"
The rest was history....we were presented with our 'gold' certificates just after dinner back at the hotel. Unfortunately, our guides could not make it so Eduardo did the honours. We then chatted and drank till late until it was time for goodnights and goodbyes :(

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 5

I was exhausted, felt drained out but at least not sick with altitude. It was as if I was sleep walking my way down. And probably was, cause at one point I lost it and skidded badly on the melting ice. I have no idea what really happened all I can remember was banging my hip against rock, legs dangling in mid-air, hands holding tight to dear life. I was actually clinging at the edge of a an ice crevice! I know I screamed but I kept calm at the same time as I let Frankie pull me back from my trousers until I was sitting upright on my own, trying to gain control of my breath and checking myself for any fractures. Luckily, I only felt which was about to be a massive bruise pain on my hip. So, resolute I gathered myself, picked up my poles and continued.

The journey back to Gillman's point was never ending. We finally, got there and having had some respite changed gear to lighter wear. I felt myself nearly dozing off the minute I said down. Frankie, allowed a few more minutes and forced me to start the next descent, all the way to Kibo campsite; my worst ever nightmare, the scree slope. Now thinking back those ice slopes were much more dangerous. Infact, our guides pointed that out to us later. As time ticked away the sun starts melting the ice making it very hard and eventually impossible to walk on. If we had not got to Uhuru by 8.30 they would have seriously asked us to stop and turn back, which unfortunately had happened with the other team, or at least most of them.

With Frankie, taking me by one arm, holding and balancing with a walking pole in the other hand, I managed to scree-run my way down. Wasn't that bad actually, despite the heat of the sun and well, excruciating knee-pain after about at least an hour of it. Oh, how I didn't feel like anything and anymore of all this, I thought.... I staggered my way to the camp to find Tosha and Ibrahim who congratulated me for having it made to Uhuru and being the first. Tosha ordered me to have a rest until the others arrived. At that point I looked at my watch and it was 11.10am; eleven hours of an arduous work-out. WOW!!!!

Obviously, being me, I couldn't close an eyelid. I was over-excited, over-tired, everything but most of all so so so so HAPPY I HAD DONE IT! All emotions came rushing at once, there as I felt safe again in my nice blue tent.

I met my teamates for a late lunch and we hugged and cheered together as 10 out of 12 of us made it to Uhuru! We ate our brunch our stomachs still knotted with excitement and heads heavy with sleep. The guides came in to brief us with a jolly good 2 to 3 hour walk to the next camp once we rested a while after lunch!!!! OH MY GOD!!! now that surely put the cherry on top of the cake!!!!

We finally, got to Horombo Huts (well, we still got to sleep in our tents!) after about 3 to 4 hour walk across the arid desert again, then downwards until we got to the great senecios greenery. We were welcomed with a water basin to wash wash and another well-earned dinner. By that time we barely had energy to eat.

Rongai Route up Kili - Summit Night

I tried to stay at heels to my guide, Tosha, who then rotated with the others. I also kept the same short melancholic step, pole pole up the scree. The first 300m never seemed to end and we had to beg for a 2-minute water break. The guides knew exactly when and where they wanted to stop bearing in mind that breaks had had to be infrequent due to the cold. Temperature wasn't -20degrees but grew colder as we surged.

We took our first proper break at around 5100m (which was half way between KIbo and Gillman's Point - the first summit). This point is known as William's Peak since he apparently was the first to get to this point back in the day. There wasn't anything really at this point just huge boulders of rock which well, served as a good resting base. I stuffed myself with mini Mars bars and whatever snacks the guides had provided us with as well as water, which was still fluid in my camelbak (and which luckily enough remained so until I reached the summit). At this point, a couple of the team started to feel nauseatic and one even bled badly.

We continued upwards stopping for mini-breaks until we got to Han Meyer's cave at 5150m. The only highlight being a mountain mouse which scared the shit out one of the girls!!! Eventually it was becoming harder at every step. The team started dwindling into smaller groups so that I was with the leading 6 while the others moved on in foursome or / couples. I couldn't exactly see where they where. All I kept seeing was the back on boots of the guide or Charlotte's most of the time. She and the guide were our force-bearers as they kept telling us how many minutes and metres to go to the next goal, Jamaica Rocks. I felt daunted the minuted I braved to look upwards. All I saw were the black outline of large big boulders above my head and the light from head torches, of climbers ahead of us, which bopped up and down like glow-worms in the dark. Above all that the beautiful starry sky - which gave us some hope and serenity.

Once we got to Jamaica rocks, all tired and breathless, the two guides, Modest (better known as Rambo) and Liberat offered us some tea! oh yes, wasn't sure whether it was a blessing or a curse at that point which was just about 300m away from Gillman's Point. Suddenly, I just felt to just get up there, so close yet so far! Oh, how I wish they served that tea on our success! Meanwhile, dawn started to show off Tanzania's neighbouring country, Kenya as well as Mt. Meru and the jagged Mawenzi. If I was calmer and had time in the world I would have never stopped staring at the view. But time was now against us and the cold getting worse.

The last few hundred metres were a cross between a climb and a scramble. We stumbled our way to Gillman's Point. On climbing the last boulder of rock, there on our left was the famous wooden stand post welcoming us to the 5686m summit. I smiled. Then my right eye caught a view I had never witnessed before; the glacier. A blanket of white snow with holes uncovering masses of chocolate brown rock. In a few seconds the whiteness turned into orange colour as the sun greeted us triumphantly at the summit. I cried.....couldn't hold it any longer at that point. All that fatigue, sleeplessness, sense of victory just melted my heart. We hugged and kissed one another and took some photos. We met other successful climbers up there, all in the same rough state we were, some better than others.

Rambo looked at us and asked "Uhuru?!" which meant who would like to proceed to Uhuru. I suddenly felt a rush of energy and said "yes, to Uhuru!" He gazed into my eyes to prob check how lucid and free from any AMS I was and said "ok!"
I asked where the next peak was and his finger just pointed to somewhere far away. I was set back by the awfully long-distance route made of snowy ice-covered sloped and rock. We couldn't even see Uhuru from where we stood. The next one and a half to two hours were an arduous feat. As my body made it's way through slippery snow and rock, my mind kept debating between giving up and turning back, scared that AMS was going to hit me now ...we were so high (in every sense!!!) or rather doing it .....I had come this far, this could be my only chance in life, and it's ONLY (!) a few minutes away compared to 6 hours......waves of thoughts kept my mind occupied while I still persisted onwards, never looking back.
I stumbled and dragged myself behind my guide, who was now Frankie, one of the summit porters. He looked as if he was taking a walk in the park. And what a park! I can still remember the phenomenal sites of which seemed endless glaciers. The massive ice rock threw shades of blue through its whiteness. The sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky; it was just like stepping out of an aeroplane! I had cautiously put some factor 50+ on my face and wore my Cat 4 sunglasses. I must say all with the help of the guides. My body, and hands were like helpless. Rambo long had my backpack (which only contained about 2litres of water and an extra fleece top in it) on his back together with a couple of others. While Frankie helped me remove my head torch and actually fitted in my specs instead.

Finally, I saw it - Uhuru! Smiling frantically I pushed on the last few metres of snow as Frankie eagerly pointed it out. I got to the wooden monument at around 8.20, alone and the first from my group. The others were held back cause of their slacking buddies. I fumbled for my camera and the little Maltese flag I had stowed away in my inner pocket. My energy was absorbed my now so Frankie came in handy. Poor guy, he was an angel and was so proud of me, telling me I got to Uhuru and was the first. Oh yes, all I wanted was my photo taken at that point. I stuck the flag first, which seemed to take ages. I seemed to be loosing focus in between excitement and the height of it all. Finally, Cancu (!) took me the well-earned photos :) In a couple of minutes some others joined me so I was lucky to get some group photos too with both Frankie and Rambo. Then I just wanted to head down. I was conscious of the time I was up there and remembered that we were only allowed 15 to 20minutes and my time was elapsing. So, Frankie turned into my guardian angel again and hastily made our way downwards.

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 4

We were woken up early with about 4 hours of straight, plain alpine desert ahead of us to get to Kibo, which stood at an altitude of 4700m. Only the first part of the journey was 'interesting' since it involved a steep climb, the rest was a grudging road in sun and wind. I almost expected to see riders on camelbacks in that desert!! Or maybe I was just hallucinating!?!?

At Kibo we had pasta dish al fresco then most of us hit our beds to gain energy and rest for the night while, others decided to acclimitise for another 100m or so. I decided to spare my energy esp since I felt OK in terms of altitude. Couldn't complain really except for my nose which constantly dripped and was so sore with the sun and dust. Not to mention, the beautiful hues of black (dust) and red (blood) oozing at every nice big blow!!! Well, shit happens!!!

Back in my tent I couldn't rest. The wind would not stop blowing making me feel less and less re-assured. I tried to start preparing my gear and wear for the big night but thoughts just clouded my mind every minute. Finally, feeling beat, alone, scared and nervous I just forced myself to think POSITIVE and started jotting down things as to why should I do this and most of all succeed? So, I had sacrificed nearly every damn weekend for the last 3 to 4 months to walk 22 miles a day and go up and down a 260m hill in West Berkshire!! I climbed the 3 UK peaks, ok not in 24hrs but still did them, and Ben Nevis was a mental challenge with all that stormy weather! I have a Blog site (!) which I started and wanted to complete successfully (if that makes sense!!!) I thought how other Maltese fellows and my big friend Maria did it - so, why shouldn't I? I thought about my family, my friends, ..... of having lived away from my country for the past 2.5 years, my cousin Marco who climbed Mt. Kenya and not just Kili, for God's sake!! my job at Vodafone and how this was a mega adventure compared to office life and the little Maltese flag I had in my duvet jacket which I had had to stick on the peak...well, anything to keep me going and most importantly give me a bit of confidence.

At 5.30pm we had our dinners. At that point we also asked the million-dollar questions to Tosha and got to know the summit porters. We also poured out our thoughts on the table. I had to voice out my nervousness esp not having a buddy with me I just stammered out to everyone; "I'm scared, well, part of me is the other part is saying , 'just go and do it!" Everyone reassured me which made me feel better. Anja even took my pulse rate and told me I should be fine it was so low (about 70) at that altitude. She was also pretty confident that we would all do it following her acclimitisation hike earlier that afternoon. She assured me it was not to steep and anyway very pole pole! Yeah, ok but what about doing it in the dark, cold night for 6 to 7 hours?!?!?!?

We adjourned to get some sleep or kind of anyway, till 11.00pm. The symphony of the strong wind and vomiting/coughing noises were a restless lullaby!! What if I get blown off the mountain by the wind?!?!?!?!?! ok, I know but hey, can't help asking any question when you're up there!!!!!

At about 10.45am I got out of the sleeping bag, went to pee then got dressed into a penguin for our Halloween night!! I wore 4 layers beneath my duvet coat, 2 thermal leggings, walking trousers, waterproofs and gaiters over my boots at the bottom. Head-torch, 2 pairs of gloves, buff, fleece hat and my walking poles. We met in the mess tent bumping into one another in our heavy clothing for tea and biscuits and set off right after Tosha at midnight, exactly.

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 3

After a good night's sleep (except for some weird dreams!) had another scrumptious breaky and hit the 'road'!!! Funny, how altitude can also affect your dreams. We couldn't help discussing them over lunch. I remember one of mine; I had to get married in a chapel on the summit to a man I didn't know. He didn't want to get married to me so despite me not even knowing the guy I was chasing him like crazy in my wedding gown around this chapel which seemed to have grown into a church!!!! Effects of altitude. We started blaming anything to it for a laugh :)

We left our campsite and the wonderful scenery of giant senecios proceeding upwards and further upwards, always pole pole. The sun was getting powerful by the minute. In no time the back of my arms burnt like crazy. Factor 50+ was becoming a must. One point it was clear blue sun-kissed sky next the clouds just draped us with their heavy dewy mantles. So that in one instant we were baking the next we were shivering and in gloves, hat and all!!

At Mawenzi Turn our campsite was already up and ready. It was amazing watching the porters carry all that stuff on their heads and backs. They must have been carrying at least 15kgs and yet they just dashed past us even on the steepest of all climbs. We couldn't help but stop to make way, cry out 'jumbo!' to them and let them pass. Oh yeah, I def prefer my sitting down job in an air-cond office....well, ehhmmm...at least just being a mountain climber with just a day-pack on my shouldersAt the camp which had a little lake beside it (that's why 'Turn') we had has yet another delicious lunch....gosh, Dennis was spoiling us or not?! This time our acclimitisation was all about going up a steep scree slope, followed by some scrambling, then walk/scramble over one of Mawenzi's ridges!! It was quite a breath-taking experience I must say. Although scary I enjoyed it and got, especially Kibo's view infront of us which was becoming larger and larger. We could also see our next day's camp site, Kibo from that distance. Mawenzi's highest peak stood tall adjacent to the ridge we were all standing upon. We skidded our way down back to the camp again so we ate and slept at 4330m that night.

I must point point the lavish new long drops at this campsite which not only were made of concrete but also had parque walls and we were actually peeing and pooing right into a sheer drop as they were situated at the very edge or a crevice :) :) :)

After dinner both Tosha and Ibrahim briefed us for the 'semi-final' night but left any questions of the final night for the following day, leaving us all anxious to know more.

The nights were getting colder. I had to wear my thermals + sweatshirt and cotton trousers to keep warm in my season 4 sleeping bag + silk liner. Ok, I know but then I sucker for cold nights! Oh, and couldn't do without me bedsocks, of course!!! But then what is cold compared to being ill? nothing. I was glad to add layers rather then be sick, unlike a girl from the other team, unfortunately.

We woke up the next day by the crowing sound of large black ravens who seem to be related to the vulture family. Oh, they were so cute ! ! ! !

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 2

We covered quite a bit of ground today, going up fairly steep slopes mostly. We were woken up at 6.30am by the guides themselves offering tea or coffee at each or our tents. They then came half an hour later with a basin of warm water for 'wash wash'. At 7.30am we were expected in the mess tent for breakfast, and what a breakfast!!! Complete with porridge, fresh fruit, omelette and bacon, bread with butter and jam ...mmm.. good start for the day ahead, which we needed. During breakfast they filled our water bottles/sacks to which we then added iodine and ribena, orange tang or naturaliser tablets to give a better taste to to the sterilised water.
We walked 'onwards and upwards' towards the first cave where we stopped for a mini-break then proceeded to the 2nd and larger cave at 3400m for lunch. A lovely al fresco lunch of salad and soup! It was quite an intense day overall, walking on rough terrain with low shrubs and greenery along our way. It was a relief stopping for short-breaks and not cause I was tired but my bladder was about to burst every 2 or less hours with the water I was drinking. I must have drunk at least 5litres that day - I think I broke me personal record, if not for altitude for drinking water!!! After lunch we walked further up, this time among the clouds. I could sense the air was changing together with the scenery. We cheered as we saw our next campsite in the distance which marked another milestone. Yet, the day wasn't over as we had our tea, 'wash wash' and went for our acclimitisation hike of about 200m nearly in the dark. That brought us to about 3800m so that we came down and slept at 3600m. The view (before the sun went down) was fantastic. We were still in-between the two volcanoes however, they were closer.
We had a 'chinese' dinner of fried chicken, with rice and veggies followed by pineapple fritters which we all relished :) After that Ibrahim briefed us for the next day; walk to Mawenzi Turn and therefore reach an elevation of 4330m. Shouldn't be a long day but definitely a steep ascent. That night everyone went to bed early....and some snored like anything!!!!

Tuesday, 26 June 2007

Rongai Route up Kili - Day 1

First day ....not bad actually!! We left the hotel at around 9am in loaded jeeps and mini vans. There were 25 of us in all so you can imagine the load of bags, camping stuff and food etc etc etc.. Anyway, we got to the Rongai (or Nalemoru in Swahili) Gate, which is about 1950m in altitude about 3 hours later; driving along rough, bumpy and red-soiled roads. The locals waved to us as if we were angels sent from heaven!!! We couldn't help not waving back to the little kids are dressed up to their best for church. They are so cute; their eyes beaming with glee as their smiles revealed contrastingly white teeth.

Once at the gate we met our crew. According to the organiser there were about 45 of them for each team; I was in the 'smaller' one with 12 while the other consisted of 13 members. The crew were mainly porters, that is, people carrying our stuff, then there was the cook, assistant guides, about 4 for each group, head guide and a couple of summit porters, that is, the guys who took anyone of us who would get sick of altitude or give up during the last summit night. Very comforting, eh?!?! Well, seeing them all batched up together waiting for us was impressive.

We identified (once again!) our bags, signed our names on the gate's 'visitor' book and set off pole pole (slowly slowly) with one guide, Liberat, leading us and the other, Ibrahim, at our tails. It took us a while to get used to walking slowly but none of us regretted it by the end of it.

Most of the path was really dusty. Little kids poorly dressed and bare-foot, came running out of their run-down huts to beg for our chocolate supplies. Unfortunately, we had to disregard them and continue with our walk. We got to the rain forest....finally a bit of fresh air(!) ... and spotted 2 colobus monkeys in the trees; black and white with fluffy white tails. We also came across our very first long drop, that is, mountain toilet. Well, it basically consists of a wooden little hut with a hole in the ground inside it. Simple as mother nature, really! While the others thought it not bad, as in clean enough, I chickened out at went for a pee with a view, instead, that is behind a massive rock!!!

We continued to head up until we left the rain forest and came to a lesser green area. We got to the first campsite for the night; Simba campsite where we found our tents already set up for us. Suddenly, Kibo (one of the volcanoes) decided to reveal its presence and magnificence from behind the clouds. It was a spectacle and we were all awed at the same time, wondering if we were ever going to make it to its top! It looked so distant, unreachable and cold. We were not allowed to rest before acclimatising, which basically consisted of proceeding upwards for about 20mins, taking a break then coming down to campsite again. The idea is to go higher from where you actually sleep for the night so your body gets used to altitude, in other words is able to cope with less oxygen especially when going higher up the mountain.

Back at the campsite we found tea and popcorn waiting for us in the Mess tent. As dusk fell on us, Mawenzi's peak (the second volcano) made it's presence felt; a scary -looking jagged piece of rock, unlike Kibo's snow-capped peak. No wonder they refer to them as brother and sister....related but different! Delighted in seeing the 2 peaks in competition to one another, we enthusiastically reached for our cameras and took photos standing on a wooden bench which squeaked under our weight.
Dinner took us all by surprise. A full 3-course meal which was even better than what we had back at the hotel. Three cheers for the 'stomach engineer', i.e. the cook, Dennis!!! Oh yes, for the rest of the journey our meals were the treat of the day :) After dinner we were briefed for the next day by Ibrahim; walk for 6 to 7 hours to Kikelelwa cave campsite which stood at 3600m. We were currently at 2700m. He was quite solemn when giving his briefs as the rest of the guides although he's articulation was the best. Ibrahim, was one of Tosha's (the head guide) assistant guide and had about 7 or 8 years of experience up and down the mountain. Tosha, had actually climbed up and down the mountain over 300 times!!!!!!!!!!!

That evening we lingered in the Mess tent, sipping tea, milo and hot chocolate laughing at the Irish girls' comic travel stories. At one point nature called me. I had not been outside in the dark yet. So, as soon as I left the tent I was (literary) star-struck!!! The black sky was full of bright shining stars, some huge others fragments forming mini Milky Ways. Wow! I can clearly recall it now at a blink of an eye.

Later in my own tent (was lucky to get one all for me own!!!) I reflected on the day and prayed that the next few days would be as easy and fun as this. Well, as Eduardo correctly advised us during our first briefing back at the hotel; "Live day by day; think about today and not tomorrow!"

Monday, 25 June 2007

The Chagga Tribe

During my short stay at Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort before the climb I had the opportunity to walk across the fields where the local people live in Marungu to get to the lovely waterfall, I previously described. Families live in destitute houses minding their own fields of bananas and crops. Omari told me about their lives, traditions and cultures. These people are descendants of the Chagga tribe which are closely related to the Massai. He told me how their ancestors, just about a century ago lived in a 'chagga' which is a one roomed-hut built out of mud, wood and hay. Each family lived together with their cattle consisting of a cow and a goat, generally. Although a few of these are still standing and used, but just to keep the cattle, Omari took me to the 'live Chagga Museum' in which a replica of such a hut was erected. It's amazing how these people lived. Inside, which was the size of perhaps one of our single bedrooms, was a (real)cow and goat munching hay. On the otherside of the hut a 'bed' - more of a outstretched piece of animal skin - occupied one corner, served for both mother and daughter/s while a similar one on the opposite side served for the father and son/s. Fire for cooking was lit in the middle of the hut's floor space. Such a confined space! Outside there were two rounded stones standing on either side of the door; one for the husband and the other for the wife. Every hut and it's surrounding field was(and still is) fenced by a particular plant called sali. It's long narrow leaves are used as a symbol; if the owners knotted the leaves that meant that no one is welcome and warned people to stay out of the fields . If leaves were left unknotted then anyone is welcome. makes sense, no?!?! :)

Sunday, 24 June 2007

I MADE IT TO UHURU!!!!


With pride, joy and tears still swimming in my eyes as I write this blog, I can finally say "I did it!". It was the toughest challenge ever in my life but am glad to have done it. The 4 days to summit night were an adventure; mountain climbing, camping, making friends with the members of my team - who were a fantastic bunch, acclimatising to the high altitude, getting sunburnt, shivering at nights, eating lots of good cooked food (!), viewing and experiencing different landscapes from rain forest to desert to finally glacier, feeling scared and alone, laughing and crying. A unique experience which ultimately led to the summit night were we spend 6 grueling hours, starting at midnight, of mountain climbing first scree (loose rocks) then boulders until we got to Gillman's Point.

When I and 6 others of my team got there, I just wept at the sight of the glacier turning in orange colour from the first rays of the sun. After having taken some photos at the first summit I was eager to proceed to the next - the highest one. Little did I know (or perhaps forgot) that it was another 1.5 hours away. Exhausted and questioning myself at every step I pushed on through icy snowed slopes, increasing in altitude. I slipped a couple of times which I only recalled a day later. It was as if I was in oblivion as my legs and arms (as I used walking poles) worked mechanically.

I reached Uhuru peak, 5895m at 8.30 Thursday morning. At that point, I smiled and felt instant success as my guide, Frankie took photos of me. Proudly enough, I stuck my little Maltese flag on the wooden monument (as you can see in the photo). My hands trembled but not with cold. "If anything I got here to do this!", I thought. I wanted to stick that flag not only in my name but also in the name of all those Maltese who had done it before me and to those who will do in future. Last but not least to represent my country and my nationality :)

I hope to recount the whole 6-days along the Rongai route as per my 'mountain log-book' in my blog, so look out for more posts and stories. I also hope to add more photos although internet connection in Arusha is dial-up speed, that is, pole pole !! (slow slow!!)

Final word on this post... I thank everyone who spared me his or her thoughts. It was what I needed. This challenge wasn't a matter of speed - who gets first to the summit, or physical - who's the iron man or woman in sports. It rather is a matter of mind over body. I must say I was lucky not to get affected by altitude in any way. I didn't even need any pills, nothing. Even though given such a 'clear of AMS' state I was in, it was a hell of a challenge. I just wanted to reach my goal - physically, morally, mentally, spiritually - and I DID IT!!!!

Saturday, 16 June 2007

Karibu Kilimanjaro

Hi, all. I landed in Tanzania yesterday - nearly 24hrs of travelling from home. I must say getting here was quite an adventure. After the long overnight flight from London to Nairobi I was welcomed by the beautiful scent of sweat at their airport!!! Airport which looks like the old Maltese 70's airport but hey I kind of expected that. I queued for ages at the transit desk, then found the gate through which we as well as passangers to Cairo and Istanbul went through at the same time! ok, I thought I just hope I get on the right plane!! Talking to some Americans we realised that we were on the same flight although their destination was Mwanza. So, I figured we'd be first we stopping in Kili then the same plane will fly onto Mwanza. Makes bus-riding sense !!! what about my luggage? "..you need to identify your luggage before boarding the plane" !! So, I did. When we were called to board the Kili/Mwanza plane we found our luggage strewn along the taxi way besides the small 2-propelled plane (our plane). Once we did the identification we boarded. What a ride! Glad the deafening flight was over in 50mins. At lease I got to see Kili's snow-capped peak. Now that was something. For some reason I strained my eyes hard to try to see whether there was someone on it!!!! anyways, flying adjacent to it was a shivering experience! Mount Meru was on the other side with clouds fuming like smoke from it's nostrils.

Once landed at Kili airport the big fat migration officer ordered me "Malta, Visa!" meaning I had to go to the opposite counter and do it or rather pay for it. The guy there seemed to take me a fancy and praised me being from Malta and working as manager in UK..."you must be very good, eh?!?!...." he said. Then he told me "Malta no pay for Visa so I give you Visa but I take no money!" Cool!!! :)

so, I picked my luggage (while thanking God it made it with me all the way!)and was welcomed by a man carrying my name in large letters. My driver took me to his old green Isuzu van choke-a-block with camping stuff..."that's all for the you, for climb!" he said. Great. So, he took my bag and off we set. I was alone since I later discovered that the others will be arriving the next day. I was dazed for the next two hours.

I got the feel of Africa in an instant. People walking along the long straight (and tarmaced!) road to Moshi; women carrying big loads on their heads, kids carrying banana stacks on their heads too! The air and the scenery was one colour, that of red soil. The makeshift houses; some made of stone others of wood. You could barely distinguish between houses and shops except the latter had some odd logos most of the local mobile companies (!) Poverty and yet mobile comms and internet access still making their way in these people's lives - their simple lives. Not to mention guys playing pool under an open-air hut and convicts working a field as police or soldiers watched them from the cool shade of the trees.

I had never before seen anything like this. It's like another world but part of the planet we all live on. I was getting excited. We got to Marungu then at the hotel which is a luxury stowaway in the middle of all this. The hotel as correctly described in my guide book is a "neo-classical structure" with balconies and a swimming pool too! The stuff all rushed outside to greet me when I got here - so sweet.

Well, that's was all for that day. I just slept most of what was left of it!!!

Today I managed to do some trekking :) I was eager to go round but on making my way to the hotel yest I realised I was the only white person around. You could see some kids' face. One of them just starred at me like some kind of wild cat or even worse for them!! Poor fellow, I think I must have been the first white person he ever saw in his life!!! So, one of the hotel's stuff Omari, walked me to the Kilasiya waterfall. Lovely short walk among the banana forest. Kids (if not starring at me) shouting "Jumbo! Jumbo!". Once at the fall, well, not really cause I had to make my way down..."pole pole" (slowly slowly)....and how it was so slippery esp after the rain. Eventually, got to the base with a magnificent view of this powerful gushing waterfall - wow! I enjoyed that, and my guide telling me all about his environmental project to help orphans, which was teaching people what and how to plant plants and taking care of their hygiene. He also told me all about the diff plant spices in the area and by the end of it my rucksack was camouflaged with branches and leaves. Some smelt wonderful.

I really getting excited for tomorrow, I got to meet a few of the ones who are doing the climb tomorrow. Apparently, we're 25 and will be split into 2 groups. Tonight we have our big briefing session and should set off early tomorrow. I'm off for now. Hope to catch up asap after the climb. Wish me luck everyone and keep sending me those positive thoughts and vibes my way!!!!

Tuesday, 5 June 2007

Ben Nevis - my 3rd climb

I had to visit Glasgow on a work trip so I thought well, might as well pay a visit to Scotland's mountainuous region and make a target to the highest mountain, Ben Nevis. I was lucky enough to find a mountaineering company who were organising a guided walk up the Big Ben on a Saturday. So I booked myself and flew over. Weather was looking really bad that morning. Before even getting out of the van to start our climb, our guide Peter was unsure whether we'd give it a go or not, let alone make it to the summit! Probably seeing the big disappointment on my face he decided to give it a try. We geared up and set out. The wind made me loose my balance several times - thank God for my walking poles - as the rain delighted to shower us. The weather got worse as we progressed. At one point we met a second guide with his group from the same company (Neil) and the two guides decided to join teams and forces to get us to the top. Stopping at every 100 or couple of metres we made it!!! The summit was a mass of snow and white fog at least it wasn't too cold, just below zero. Well, yes although unrecognisable due to the heavy fog that's me on the summit!!! I was so pleased and of course the whole group. We then started trailing our way down as the weather was improving! We had a well-deserved drink at the Ben Nevis Inn then chilled out at our guesthouse. Couldn't stop looking at the rainbow from my room window. Next day was a piece of cake as not only was in warm and sunny with a couple of light showers now and then, but we walked across the Scottish moors from just outside Fort William towards Oban.
Was lovely! Oh, and we kind of got a view of Ben's peak as it's head was still in the clouds. Funny to think you where on a summit which you never saw and from which you couldn't see a thing!

Following my mountain adventures in the UK my next update will be a while, however I hope to have a nice long one to share with you as it will be about my Kilimanjaro climb in Tanzania. I'll be taking the Rongai route up the mountain which takes 6 days to accomplish. I hope to be lucky as I have been so far. I appreciate your thoughts while I'm out and about in Africa and up Kili - each thought will carry me towards my goal!

Lake District - my '2nd' climb

Reading someone else's blog (that's how these things come in handy!) I decided to make Lake District my next training destination. I met Robin (my guide for the weekend) on a Saturday morning and next thing I know I was scrambling my way along Striding Edge. Crossing from one mount to another across a ridge is something. Especially when you have to scramble your way with drops of 200/300m on either side! Being Bank Holiday weekend there were loads of people and at one point we just got stuck in a queue. It was funny seeing people crossing from afar - they looked like ants on a camel's back! There was a side footpath for the less brave ...so tempting! But hey was super glad to have done it the proper rough way - you can tell by the look of my face in the photo!!!











The summit was a walk in the clouds. Next day Robin decided to make my legs work harder by attempting my first ever scramble up Jacob's Creek to get to another summit. After a good hill climb we discovered Stickle Turn lake - a wonder out of nowhere! A walk around the lakes we got to the scrambling bit. Ok, here I am, I thought. I started off ok and continued ok with fits of nervous laughter here and there as I tried to make out how the hell am I going to get up there ?!?!?!? We finally did - 2nd accomplishment of the weekend - only to be welcomed by rain. As we made our way to the next summit (which I believe is called Chapel Row) we were hit my strong wind and rain. Robin quickly resorted to his emergency shelter tent so we had a nice wet lunch and break from the wind and rain. But as we started our descent a hailstorm hit us. Gosh it stung so bad at 30/40 mph!!! Could barely move let alone get my camera out and take a picture :( Anyway, we got to the bottom soaked to the bone - or quite as my boots prooved their worth.

Sunday, 3 June 2007

The South West Coast Path

Easter long weekend was coming up and I couldn't just sit still and enjoy sunbathing in the back garden. what to do? What to do? ....Nice weather coming up, I'm not visiting my tiny surrounded-by-the-sea home island so what better place to go but the south west coast of UK? Mike (a Maltese friend & my guide!!!)and I embarked on a long train journey down south and started our walk from Sennen Cove. From there trekked our way to Land's End then onto Porthcurno.Wonderful scenery all along the way combined with excellent weather. When we finally got to Porthcurno I had had to stop to visit the Minack Theatre where I couldn't resist going up the stage!Not only that I actually managed to get a last minute ticket to watch Les Miserables al fresco. I didn't even feel the cold of the night air I was so over the moon! The whole thing about the open-air theatre and the performance....oh oh oh !!! Day 2 we trekked onto Lamorna and visited Mousehole village in the evening. So quaint and cute.Day 3 we walked onto Newlyn finally arriving in Penzance where we walked across an amazing 2.5 mile beach. Mike and I could not help thinking if only tiny Malta was abit bigger at the same time saying this is awesome; warm weather, sunny just like Malta and so spectacular. Some of the sandy beaches and coves didn't have a soul in them! We finished off our 3 day trekking by lunching opposite Mount St. Michael (to Mike's pride!!);an interesting castle with its village and forest on an a tiny hilly island just a couple of miles off the mainland. Was great watching people crossing on foot as soon as the tide was out and boat owners losing business by the minutes!

Snowdon - my 1st climb

Apart from getting me in shape, the second good thing about this challenge was discovering the beauty of England's wilderness. My first hill climbing taster was Snowdon in Wales. I fell in love with the little mountain. How could I not! I met my guides Nick and his dog Oscar at the foot of it - start of the Watkin path - on a lovely, sunny and warm March day. Snowdon's peak seemed to be far far away!!! However, I enjoyed the slow-paced walk up it, encountering waterfalls, clear blue streams and goats. Close to the summit I managed the scree quite well. Nick made me do it in baby steps as I would be doing on Kili on the last night. Was ok, although kept thinking what it would be like trekking up scree at such a small pace for hours in the dark and cold at so much higher altitude. The summit was no surprise (except for the construction of a modern Italian design restaurant!!!!).Anyways, I got to the top!! Was very happy as you can see by the grin on my face!!!! It felt good and great to be on top. Not that I haven't been so high, which I have and more on a skiing holiday in Liechtenstein years ago. But having scaled a mountain from its foot is something. The long LLanbris path lead us down finishing with a lovely tea in a lovely cafi surrounded by fields full of Welsh rams.

Friday, 1 June 2007

Where to start?!?!

Like any other blog this blog relates a story but unlike others it's relates my own! I've been living in the UK for 2 and a half years. But this wasn't enough; Malta was my springboard and now I'm turning UK into a vault. I plan to travel the world - one of my biggest dreams in life - and I can't wait to start :)
My first destination is Africa, precisely Tanzania. Why? well, had to start from somewhere, of course! Best route around the world is clockwise or anti-clockwise, travel experts and agents had told me. Fair enough makes flying sense! If you want to do Africa, well then, that's a continent you would have to tackle on its own.

Mmmm...couldn't help missing out on that big piece of land eh?! So, decided to go there first.

Giving up on the idea of travelling overland crossing from one country to another, I settled on the idea of sticking to one place. But where?
The answer came soon enough in the form of my dear friend Maria! Meeting her on Xmas eve last year over lunch she told be all about her exciting upcoming challenge; climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. With hardly any second thoughts I just decided to do just that and go just there. Yeah, why not? Beautiful country; safaris, beaches and mingle with the local tribes and people by helping out as a voluntary, perhaps too?!!? But why climb Kili? I think I thought it would be something different to do, honestly until it turned into something of a personal challenge and then why not discover Tanzania's mega beauty spot!I booked myself with one of African Travel Resource's teams and in no time discovered every contour of my muscles (aaghh!!) as I became a gym junkie! I started walking at the weekends and in no time increased time and distance. Every weekend Beacon Hill in Hampshire became the shrine of my pilgrimage. I walked from home across Berkshire and went up and down the 260m with quite-a-steep gradient hill a few times before walking back home again, covering a total distance of about 22 miles in a day.
 
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