Wednesday, 27 June 2007

Rongai Route up Kili - Summit Night

I tried to stay at heels to my guide, Tosha, who then rotated with the others. I also kept the same short melancholic step, pole pole up the scree. The first 300m never seemed to end and we had to beg for a 2-minute water break. The guides knew exactly when and where they wanted to stop bearing in mind that breaks had had to be infrequent due to the cold. Temperature wasn't -20degrees but grew colder as we surged.

We took our first proper break at around 5100m (which was half way between KIbo and Gillman's Point - the first summit). This point is known as William's Peak since he apparently was the first to get to this point back in the day. There wasn't anything really at this point just huge boulders of rock which well, served as a good resting base. I stuffed myself with mini Mars bars and whatever snacks the guides had provided us with as well as water, which was still fluid in my camelbak (and which luckily enough remained so until I reached the summit). At this point, a couple of the team started to feel nauseatic and one even bled badly.

We continued upwards stopping for mini-breaks until we got to Han Meyer's cave at 5150m. The only highlight being a mountain mouse which scared the shit out one of the girls!!! Eventually it was becoming harder at every step. The team started dwindling into smaller groups so that I was with the leading 6 while the others moved on in foursome or / couples. I couldn't exactly see where they where. All I kept seeing was the back on boots of the guide or Charlotte's most of the time. She and the guide were our force-bearers as they kept telling us how many minutes and metres to go to the next goal, Jamaica Rocks. I felt daunted the minuted I braved to look upwards. All I saw were the black outline of large big boulders above my head and the light from head torches, of climbers ahead of us, which bopped up and down like glow-worms in the dark. Above all that the beautiful starry sky - which gave us some hope and serenity.

Once we got to Jamaica rocks, all tired and breathless, the two guides, Modest (better known as Rambo) and Liberat offered us some tea! oh yes, wasn't sure whether it was a blessing or a curse at that point which was just about 300m away from Gillman's Point. Suddenly, I just felt to just get up there, so close yet so far! Oh, how I wish they served that tea on our success! Meanwhile, dawn started to show off Tanzania's neighbouring country, Kenya as well as Mt. Meru and the jagged Mawenzi. If I was calmer and had time in the world I would have never stopped staring at the view. But time was now against us and the cold getting worse.

The last few hundred metres were a cross between a climb and a scramble. We stumbled our way to Gillman's Point. On climbing the last boulder of rock, there on our left was the famous wooden stand post welcoming us to the 5686m summit. I smiled. Then my right eye caught a view I had never witnessed before; the glacier. A blanket of white snow with holes uncovering masses of chocolate brown rock. In a few seconds the whiteness turned into orange colour as the sun greeted us triumphantly at the summit. I cried.....couldn't hold it any longer at that point. All that fatigue, sleeplessness, sense of victory just melted my heart. We hugged and kissed one another and took some photos. We met other successful climbers up there, all in the same rough state we were, some better than others.

Rambo looked at us and asked "Uhuru?!" which meant who would like to proceed to Uhuru. I suddenly felt a rush of energy and said "yes, to Uhuru!" He gazed into my eyes to prob check how lucid and free from any AMS I was and said "ok!"
I asked where the next peak was and his finger just pointed to somewhere far away. I was set back by the awfully long-distance route made of snowy ice-covered sloped and rock. We couldn't even see Uhuru from where we stood. The next one and a half to two hours were an arduous feat. As my body made it's way through slippery snow and rock, my mind kept debating between giving up and turning back, scared that AMS was going to hit me now ...we were so high (in every sense!!!) or rather doing it .....I had come this far, this could be my only chance in life, and it's ONLY (!) a few minutes away compared to 6 hours......waves of thoughts kept my mind occupied while I still persisted onwards, never looking back.
I stumbled and dragged myself behind my guide, who was now Frankie, one of the summit porters. He looked as if he was taking a walk in the park. And what a park! I can still remember the phenomenal sites of which seemed endless glaciers. The massive ice rock threw shades of blue through its whiteness. The sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky; it was just like stepping out of an aeroplane! I had cautiously put some factor 50+ on my face and wore my Cat 4 sunglasses. I must say all with the help of the guides. My body, and hands were like helpless. Rambo long had my backpack (which only contained about 2litres of water and an extra fleece top in it) on his back together with a couple of others. While Frankie helped me remove my head torch and actually fitted in my specs instead.

Finally, I saw it - Uhuru! Smiling frantically I pushed on the last few metres of snow as Frankie eagerly pointed it out. I got to the wooden monument at around 8.20, alone and the first from my group. The others were held back cause of their slacking buddies. I fumbled for my camera and the little Maltese flag I had stowed away in my inner pocket. My energy was absorbed my now so Frankie came in handy. Poor guy, he was an angel and was so proud of me, telling me I got to Uhuru and was the first. Oh yes, all I wanted was my photo taken at that point. I stuck the flag first, which seemed to take ages. I seemed to be loosing focus in between excitement and the height of it all. Finally, Cancu (!) took me the well-earned photos :) In a couple of minutes some others joined me so I was lucky to get some group photos too with both Frankie and Rambo. Then I just wanted to head down. I was conscious of the time I was up there and remembered that we were only allowed 15 to 20minutes and my time was elapsing. So, Frankie turned into my guardian angel again and hastily made our way downwards.

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