We swiveled our way into the mountains. I was absorbed by the beautiful surroundings with the river still leading its way along our side. We got to Pokhara at about 4pm and again did not know whether we were being picked up or not. If anything an army of small white cabs were waiting for our pick. Sharon called Raj and got the name of the hotel. We were staying at the Pokhara View Hotel, and what a view! The Himalayas were just peering over us.
We checked into an internet cafe and later met our trekking guide, Amrit and sherpa, Ganesh. That evening we were specially treated out for drinks and dinner by two MPs of Nepal. Effectively, Sharon had made friends with them (or should I say them with her?!) through Raj. They practically escorted us for the night almost failing to take us back to our hotels!!! Small adventure there, which I'd rather not recall! ;)
Before we set off the next day, I managed to confirm my booking for my next trip to Indochina. I was twice as thrilled, yipppeee!!! We were driven to Nayapul, our starting point, from then we started walking, upwards and onwards, for the next 5 days.
There was lots going on at the starting point; trekkers start or end their length version of the Annapurna circuit (the full version taking 22 days to complete).
It was a hustle and bustle, one road long town; full of trekkers and their sherpas getting ready, mules carrying heavy loads, rows of shops selling everything the last-minute trekker might need. We walked across the suspended bridge to the park ticket office and paid our dues to enter the Annapurna National Park.
"Nepali flat, sometimes up sometimes down". And so it was. But the views were stunning, trees, rivers, waterfalls, and the Himalayas which accompanied us along the way. It felt good to break into a sweat again and even better to quench our thirst at the quaint teahouses along the way.
I could have set for hours on those terraces over-looking valleys and fields. After some 3hours of trekking we got to our lodge for the night, the Laximaster in Tikhedhunga. Our 2 single-bed bedroom with two walls of glass panes overlooked the green hills we would climb up the next day. The terrace overlooked the tiny cobbled street beyond which was a sheer drop into the valley below. We had pasta for lunch, then chatted with two Finnish girls in the lovely sun until it was time to hit the shower before the hot water ran out. It was dark before 5pm and the cold night grew on us quickly. We tucked up into warm clothes and joined other trekkers in the dinning room. We munched our dinners on wooden benches and made friends over a cup of tea and biscuits. The evening turned into merriment with the young lodge owners dancing with fellow male trekkers. We ended up coming across most of them over the next few days either beating them on the trek or for hot showers at our teahouse stops :) 
Next day we set off at 8am. The day ahead of us was meant to be the most strenuous, involving about 5hours of continuous uphill. We just went up endless flights of stairs for the first 2 hours which also served as roads along tiny villages. The locals as well as the mules, carried all sorts of weights on their backs and heads. 
We were amazed at their ordure especially when we were punting under the weight of our small backpacks! We stopped for a tea break at the top of hills overlooking the terraced fields, valley and the now tiny lodge we stayed in the previous day. We continued until we came to Ulleri which is at 2120m. We stopped for lunch in the pretty garden. After lunch it was an easy walk through lush forest. Towards early evening we arrived at Ghorepani which is around 2853m high. Police officers were quick to welcome us into the blue-roof topped village. They were after every entrant's Park passes.
Some more stairways away was our lodge, Kamala for the night. As the sun began to hide behind the mountains (and it was still 3 in the afternoon) open market sellers started to pack up. The dining area downstairs was a plain barely furnished room, except benches a long table and some more wooden benches around a large tin stove which hardly emitted any heat. Sharon and I quickly took the opportunity of beating the other trekkers and made a dash for a hot shower. Our room was on the 4th floor, which apparently was luxury with one western toilet at the end of the corridor and the best view ever of the Fishtail mountain.
We huddled up nice and tight around the stove writing our journals and engaging in small talk with our guide and sherpa. Before we knew it the lodge was filling up. At about 5, when the sun started to set, I got my camera and went out into the cold chill air to take some photos. Before we knew it it was dark and to my and Thunda's amazement we witnessed something extraordinary. An illuminant white ball was rising from behind the lodges and mountains in the distance. It was the moon. Never had I seen it so blindingly bright.
Back at the lodge we had our dinner by candlelight, which added to the cosy and warm atmosphere. At one point a voice struck me. We were seated on one of the long tables. Sharon was on my right while Amrit and Ganesh were seated infront of us. The voice attracted my attention to a trekking couple seated at the end of the table, with their guide and sherpa infront of them. I heard the man talk but couldn't make out the words. I stood still, straining my ears. Sharon gave me the odd looks trying to figure out what I was doing. 'Would you mind if we exchange seats?' I asked her. 'ok! you alright?!' 'Yes Yes.... I think....' and at that point I heard what I was hoping to hear; a word in my language, Maltese! I jumped out of my seat turned towards the couple and blurted, 'Intkom Maltin?!' (You're Maltese?!). And so they were!. I still can't believe I met Mariella and Andrew to this day. OMG!!!! It was amazing to meet a Maltese couple in a teahouse right in the middle of the Annapurna Circuit. And how even more amazing was it that they were about to complete the 17-day trek. WOW, what a feat! I had never felt so proud of being Maltese :) We chatted for ages, relating our adventures in turn. They told me about the toughest point being the Throng-la Pass at 5416m trekking through the cold and snow. I was in awe.
We were then sent to bed quite early by our guides that night as we had to climb up to Poon Hill (our highest trekking point at 3210m) for sunrise the next morning. According to 'Gurkha Encounters' (our friend Raj's tourist agency) the view has had 'a life-changing effect on people.'
The wafer-thin walls of our room and the excitement didn't make it easy for us to sleep and at 5am we jumped out of bed despite the cold. We dressed quickly in thick layers of clothes and shot outside in the stark and dark streets. We set off, step-by-step. Before we knew it our breath cut short; altitude was kicking in. Head-torches bobbed up and down further up the path. At one point the moon revealed a clearing - our first viewpoint. The horizon started to tinge with pink and red. We punted and puffed the rest of the way until we finally got to a gate beyond which was the white viewing tower. The night was turning into day. A cup of coffee or chocolate from the locals' wooden stall was definitely a warm welcome. Everyone was preparing cameras and trying to get the best spot. I thought the whole 360 view was just stunning. The moon was still standing strong behind us as we faced the east in anticipation. Then after a long wait the sun made it's appearance from behind the Range. There it was shining bright as ever restoring glory to the Himalayas. And I was there to witness it, simply amazing!
Back at the lodge they fed us breakfast. We said our goodbyes and set off for a full day's trekking, this time heading downwards.
Thunde and Mandeep caught up with us at the teahouse in Duerali. Was lovely sitting and sipping tea in the sun. As we continued our descent the rocky steps became even more slippery and muddy. Then at one point I just slipped on my bum. Luckily, I suffered no injuries, except for a huge bruise on my bum! oh, and a brown matching patch on my trousers!! Despite the small accident we still managed to surpass the others. We stopped at another teahouse. The views were something out of the ordinary. Sharon and I couldn't get enough of them. After curving our way around the side of a hill we got to a solitary restaurant. Amrit wanted us to have lunch here, reason obviously being the panoramic view. I just wanted to sleep on that wooden bench!
But the afternoon didn't turn into a siesta. We descended steeply into a valley only to climb it up again on the other end. It was steep but Sharon and I were doing fine. I was practically enjoying it. Before we knew it we got to our night lodge, the Himalayan Guesthouse in Tadapani. We had tea with the Finnish girls and later again with Thunda and Mandeep who were running behind especially when they had another 2/3 hours trekking to get to another lodge for that night.
After goodbyes, Sharon and I hit the showers, which were the best so far. We took a mini tour around the village; women selling handmade jewelery and crafts while children played around. It was getting cold again so I decided to write my journal in the warmth of the dining room, which was very cozy especially with a blanket tablecloth which covered our legs and buckets of charcoal at our feet, underneath the table. (just to think how cold it was outside!) We drank tea and munched on popcorn and later I learnt how to play 'arsehole' :)
At about 8pm Sharon and I headed off to our beds. The view from the 2nd floor long balcony was another stunner. I must say Raj ensured we got the best rooms well, or at least rooms with best views, for each of our stays.
Next morning we breakfasted outside on the stone terrace overlooking the forest we were about to descend into. We skipped like little elves through the rhododendron forest.
So, pretty pity it wasn't flowering season. After 2hours we came across the first teahouse out of the forest and sunk in tea and sun. Within less than an hour later we arrived at Ghundrig, known as the stone village. The cobbled streets led us to the and our last Annapurna View Hotel. Now that felt quite an upgrade and was infact the best 'hotel' we had stayed in over the past 5 days. I spent hours writing my journal in the lovely sunny garden as Sharon slept soundly in her bed facing THE VIEW one last time from our bedroom window. We had dinner that evening in the noisy dinning area and played 'arsehole' till we were dozing off on the table. 
The next day was our final day. We only had about 4hours of trekking again downwards and on until we got to our starting point in Nayapul to get our bus back to Pokhara. It was lovely and warm and sunny. We were so lucky with the weather throughout our trekking. So were twice as pleased with our accomplishment. When the bus finally arrived we decided to take 'a seat upstairs' i.e. the roof. It was a good ride, we got to enjoy the remainder of the Annapurna views and chatted up three good-looking guys :)
next..back to Pokhara and a bit of paragliding :)
ta
nicky
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