After Jakarta and Pangandaran we travelled on to Yagyakarta otherwise known as Yogya. We headed for the bus terminal from where we got a public (luckily air-conditioned) bus which drove us for about four hours were we then stopped at Cilacap for a quick lunch. It was back on the bus for the rest of the afternoon then on mini-buses which got us into the heart of Yogya. It was quite a scenic journey of valleys, terraced fields and acres of palm-oil plantations - an endless controversial discussion. Sadly most of Indonesia has been deforested whatever is left will be chopped down to to feed numerous families. Unfortunately, this not only contributes to the green house affect but throws wildlife and eco-systems in jeopardy. The classical example being orangutans which habitat is shrinking even further.
Back at Yogya town, our hotel was squished in one of its quaint narrow back streets, full of everything to make the tourist feel comfortable away from home; lavish coffee shops, art galleries, souvenir outlets, western cuisine restaurants and internet cafes. Tired as we were Sally took us to Via Via a few metres away from Delta Hotel for dinner. On our way back, Marg, Helen, Sally and I couldn't resist the temptation to enter the Civet Coffee shop. The extravagant kopi luwak, as known in Java, is made from coffee berries which have been chewed, digested and defecated (i.e. poohed) by the Asian civet (weasel looking-like animal).
It's considered to be one of the top gourmet coffees and is therefore very expensive. I only tested my sense of smell, mmmm....lovely aroma, yes seriously! Marg and Pam indulged in a cup but to their disappointment it tasted disgusting. So long for the scent of it then. 
Next morning our local guide Arnott and his crew cycled us in becaks (bicycle rickshaws) around Yogya starting at the palace of Mr. Spock look-a-like Sultan.
Later he took us to a batik (printed cloth) art studio where us girls lost track of time! Next we paid a quick visit to a wayang (puppet) workshop where I finally got to buy my buffalo-skinned 'Romeo'. Was very happy indeed! (Ah, wish it were as easy to find your true Romeo in real life!!! :) 
We stopped for a refreshing mango lassi at an art-deco photo-studio/restaurant just outside the bird market. We walked around the maze of narrow alleys full of cages. Just the sight of all those birds and reptiles made us scratch.
The crystal clear pools at the Water Castle sparkled in our eyes as the sun bet hard upon us that early afternoon.
But our day was not over. Arnott took us to the batik factory or rather workshop. We were all fascinated by the whole process; intricate designs which are traced out with wax pens. After several consecutive washs to get rid of excess wax, dye was applied to the remaining blocks within the patterns. Fantastic works of art.
We lunched at a pendang, a local restaurant which you find everywhere like McDonalds in our world - only this was home-cooking :) A cheap but delicious meal of jackfruit curry, tempe, tofu and rice.
A quick power nap energised me for the big event of the evening. We had bought tickets for the Ramayana Ballet performance show. This took place in an open theatre, situated outside of the large Hindu temple in Prambanam.
We watched the temple transform from day to nightlight beauty as the sun descended. Needless saying, the sight took me back to Angkor Wat in Camobodia.
After a buffet dinner with the best possible panoramic view of the Temple we went backstage to 'meet & greet' the actors who were busy dressing up in lavish costume and make up. Exciting! 
The performance was based on a complicated story plot with a multitude of characters dancing or rather twisting fingers and feet to the beating of the gamelan music. We enjoyed the performance and the story which unlike Romeo and Juliet had a happy ending :) The Borobudur was the highlight of our next day's tour. It's enigmatic. I had never been in a Buddhist temple before other than monasteries and this was huge. It's said to be the biggest one in the world and dates back to the 8th century. It's built as a one large stupa which resembles a giant mandala. The story of Buddhist cosmology is carved in stone along a stretch of 5km clockwise around the temple. Each of the 7 levels spiral closer to Nirvana. At the top of the 3 terraces there are 72 large Buddha sit in latticed stupas. I just sat up and meditated for about half an hour.
That afternoon Marg, Gaby, Pam and myself hit the open market along Jalang Malioboro. Got a few good bargins one of them a batik dress which was fab :)
After lunch we had a posh ice-coffee and chocolate cake at 'Ministry of Coffee'(!) in one of the narrow street behind our hotel. Oh, such westernised luxury in the middle of Yogya, couldn't help it!
In the evening, we did dinner at one of the sit-on-the-floor restaurants again along Jl Malioboro. They had very traditional food, delicious BBQed chicken, sambal (chilli), tofu etc... The best part of eating at such open restaurants was the live entertainment provided by young musicians. Initially, we were thrilled by two guitarists playing re-editions of popular rock ballads. A solo artist performed after them but wasn't that good. I quickly gathered some tips from everybody around the table thanked him and anxiously beckoned the next group of musicians who were highly spirited and played Spanish and 60's classics with bass, guitar, drums and wonderful en chorus voices. Excellent!
Next day was another long travelling day this time to Mojokoto, most noted for Mt. Penanggungan, an active volcano. We were taken to PPLH (an acronym standing for a very complicated name to an environmental educational centre) situated in a village called Seloliman. Sally, Becky and I went for a walk uphill towards the mountain until it got dark but just enough for us to see a scorpion cross the road on our way back. Our bungalow had three comfy beds with mosquito netting and an open-air bathroom. Interesting concept, i.e. that of sitting on a western toilet and bathing in a shower out in a garden. This however we shared with the friendly wildlife too, of course.
Our prince frog made sure we were safe for the night as he didn't budge from his guarding post just behind the toilet!!! The Centre's staff team cooked delicious organic meals from produce they grew in the grounds around the bungalows. Rich fertile soil of course, being at the foot of the volcano.
Next morning we were taken for a good hike around the rice fields. At times there was hardly any space where to place a foot. Rice fields are only segmented by a narrow mould of mud. But was a splendid day and so was it for a group of kids bathing naked in a shallow stream. On our way we were invited for a strong cup of tar coffee by an old lady who spent the whole day crushing coffee beans with a huge pestle and mortar.
She looked very old and couldn't speak a word in English but she did let us have a go at it. The shack she lived in consisted of one room full of pots & pans, a big table which served as her worktop and restaurant and some benches along the wall. A fire burnt in the corner making the whole place a little bit too warm for comfort. 
After a good shower and yet another hearty meal we set off up into the mountains. Our next destination being Mt. Bromo, another but sleepy volcano.
Luckily, it was dark when we got to Yoshi's hotel or rather Adams' Family Hotel!
The place was grim and thick with brown wood furnishing. The rooms around the garden where of exquisite taste (not!). I shared like a joint twin-room with Michelle, Sally and Becky. It looked like something out of Flintstones. The others' could not stop describing the art & deco of their rooms. Marg and Pam in particular, whose room apparently was an old office with two beds. No one had an appetite that evening. We were all excited for next day venture which would start at 3am in the morning.
We met in the lobby. Luckily, it wasn't that cold. We still tucked ourselves in beanies, jackets, fleece and gloves. Jeeps took us further uphill until an hour into the drive we got to the viewing point. There were lots of people with whom we waited in darkness. Then dawn broke through revealing one of the most spectacular vistas ever. Three volcanoes stood tall infront of us. Out of the three only Mt Semaru was awake, throwing thick smoke into the clear thin air.
Having taken photos of the breath-taking scene we set off to climb to the rim of Mt Bromo.
Our guides took us to a barren ash-covered bit of land from where we started our walk. In no time our shoes (luckily there was no wind) were covered in ash and horse pooh! There were many locals trying to hire their horses to take tourists up to the hill. After that it was a 'stairway to heaven' to get to the summit or rather rim of the volcano. I peered down into the deep crater and saw huge puffs of smoke emitting from the heart of it. Oh! so it is kind of active! Well, apparently the locals hold ceremonies to quieten the fiery spirits less they decide to erupt. They throw their offerings such as chickens, flowers and whatever produce while praying to the gods for peace!
Back at Yoshi we packed, had breaky and took up in a mini-van down and round the Tengger Valley to the station. It was a gorgeous day, very inspiring and I just relished the fresh breeze in my face listening to oriental music on my ipod.
It was the beginning of yet another long journey and to a degree a new discovery - island of Bali here we come!
:)
X
2 comments:
so sad that indonosian now lacks the interest in their own culture(interested in blackberry and its feature more,the irony)yet many foreigners are keen to it(again the irony)...
I seldom leave comments on blog, but I have been to this post which was recommended by my friend, lots of valuable details, thanks again.
Post a Comment